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August 22 2014

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Marco De Vincenzo: Kinda Versace, Kinda Margiela

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“This is what I do after 6 p.m.,” says Marco de Vincenzo of the debut haute couture collection he presented in Paris this week—a patchwork of narrow, figure-hugging stripe dresses in a play of soft and stiff coated jersey. De Vincenzo, who will soon be 31, moved to Rome at the age of 18 to attend the European Institute of Design. He joined Fendi’s design team immediately after completing a Fashion and Costume Design degree, and he has been the right hand of Silvia Venturini Fendi, working on the house’s accessories for the past eight years. “I made it all alone in Rome in my room with one dressmaker,” says de Vincenzo of the 20-piece collection he showed at the Espace Commines. His work with Fendi is still ongoing, a job that he says inspires his “passion for material research.” That’s evident in his runway debut: De Vincenzo cut out every narrow jersey stripe himself and sewed them together for a patchwork of matte contrasting with shine, soft playing off stiff that hugs curves and creates a play of light and shadow. “I like to take one fabric and use it two different ways for an optical effect,” he explains. In a Spring season where many designers are trying out longer recession-appropriate lengths, de Vincenzo remains an unapologetic leg man. His sexy, hourglass shapes go from short to microscopic. “I like sexy, but with a concept so that it’s modern,” he says. “I’ve always been inspired by Gianni Versace, but I also like Margiela.”

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