August 20 2014

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Popping Pill


At 27, newly married and with her first baby on the way, Brussels-based designer Cathy Pill already has everything lined up for fall. She gets a jump on the season by showing her ready-to-wear ahead of her peers during Paris Couture week, and what she’s up to is getting better by the season. She belongs (in spirit, if not geographically) to the cohort of young modernist print talents that has been on the rise in Europe, like Peter Pilotto and Josh Goot. Pill also has a mathematical brain that approaches the draping of a dress like a geometry problem. Her first experiments, though approaching Vionnet-esque elegance once on the body, would often drive customers into frustrated tangles in changing rooms. “Now, though, I’ve worked it out,” Pill laughs. “I want to do dresses that are as easy as T-shirts to put on. And I’ve gone through everything, thinking what I want to wear.” That turns out to be a combination of Xerox-manipulated images of a piece of rock, printed onto jersey or taffeta and then (in some cases) topped with a fur chubby. The cool part is the way she’s dyed the pelt tips to reflect the print, and implanted the fur on top of a tailored jacket so it looks as if you’re wearing two pieces, but without the bulk.

Photo: Courtesy of Cathy Pill

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