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november 22, 2009

Social intelligence

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Designer update

Rag & Bone Partners With Penfield

March 26, 2009  12:19 pm

Really, by this late date in March, the prospect of donning a down-insulated, wind-proof, and water-resistant anything should not hold much appeal. But—alas—the weather has obliged to make the new Rag & Bone for Penfield jacket rather instantly covetable. “It’s as warm as a duvet,” notes Rag & Bone designer Marcus Wainwright of the jacket, which arrives in stores for Fall ‘09. For this first outing with Penfield, Wainwright and co-designer David Neville made only a few adaptations to the jacket’s iconic silhouette, dialing down the western-ness of the yoke and working on the women’s fit. But Rag & Bone is written all over the jacket’s fabrication. The jacket comes in black Schoeller melton wool, a material Wainwright and Neville used extensively in their Fall ‘09 apparel, and features a leather shoulder and their standard Bemberg lining. “We didn’t do anything major,” acknowledges Wainwright. “For me, this is the archetypal Penfield silhouette. I buy a lot of vintage, and that’s what I see. So it’s fun to take a garment like that, something classic, and play with the fabrics.” There was one big change the Rag & Boners made, however: The women’s version of the jacket will now come with zip-off sleeves. “Sleeveless, it’s OK for Spring,” says Wainwright. “Especially a spring like this one.”

Photo: Courtesy of Rag & Bone

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