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July 29 2014

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Future Classics Is Ready For Its Close-Up

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You can learn a lot about how designers see their collections by the music they choose. In Future Classics designer Julie Wilkins’ case, it was “Sing Swan Song” by Can and “Strange Overtones” from the recent Brian Eno/David Byrne album. Those particular songs don’t tell you much the way, for instance, “Girls & Boys” by Blur is an androgyny alert or “Dance Dance Dance” by Lykke Li informs you that you’re about to see a collection determinedly on-trend. But Can? According to Wilkins, a sense of mystery was the point. “I’m always interested in hiding or exposing the body in unexpected ways,” she explained, noting the draped hooding and back vent in her Spring 2010 line-up. Shown at the British Fashion Council’s new Somerset House location, Wilkins’ Future Classics presentation yesterday was part of the BFC’s initiative this season to offer emerging designers a more intimate venue. Here, the close-up view was a boon, as Wilkins specializes in, ahem, classic looks that are just a little twisted, like a pair of baggy trouser shorts cut open subtly at the base of the spine, or a vivid floral dress that reveals some exacting tailoring. The designer, who launched her brand in 2000 and sells at U.S. stores like Confederacy and Curve, calls this season particularly “realistic.” She explained, “If I wouldn’t wear it, it was out.” One last musical issue: Was that really her singing the song that introduced the show? “Yeah, I dip in and out of the music thing,” Wilkins revealed. “I don’t have a proper band name or anything, but I do have an album cooking.”

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