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Established & Sons: Vanity Fair’s New And Next

October 9, 2009 10:07 am

As much as we love lists, we also love predictions. Yesterday, Vanity Fair gave us both, releasing its annual New Establishment ranking along with an appendage of on-the-verge comers, the Next Establishment. Along with power elite in finance and technology, etc, there’s a sizeable fashion industry factor. On the first are obvious choices like Bernard Arnault (#10) and nemesis François-Henri Pinault (#20), while Ralph Lauren sits between them at a very respectable #13. Having had very good years are J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler, moving up from last year’s #52 spot to #37; Marc Jacobs, who rose from #78 to #54; Diego Della Valle, up from #76 to #50; and John Galliano, strutting from #83 to #56. While Miuccia Prada dropped from #30 to #44, she’s still Mrs. Prada. And fresh off a runway triumph, Alber Elbaz makes his first entry at #73.

As for who might be joining the Lanvin designer at the adults’ table for 2010, there’s Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier—both lauded for being forward-thinking caretakers of iconic brands. There’s the face that launched a thousand (well, million) ballet flats, Tory Burch, and red-carpet rulers Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. However, the selection of younger Americans is somewhat curious. You could probably guess Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy and Alexander Wang, but it’s surprising that Zac Posen and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg beat out seemingly recession-proof king of contemporary Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler, the very first of New York’s younger set to win the CFDA’s Designer of the Year award. Also missing are MObama go-tos like Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul. Another surprise is MTV host and ubiquitous girl-about-town Alexa Chung. Though going from “who?” to Who’s Who in the course of less than a year is no mean feat.