Gripoix Comes Out From Behind The Scenes
Vintage hounds and the fashion fluent know Gripoix as one of the old-school specialists that has serviced couture houses for decades. Particularly famous for its collaborations with Chanel, it’s been the ne plus ultra of pate de verre (poured glass) jewelry since 1869. The company was acquired in 2006 by vintage jewelry collector Marie-Pierre Keslassy, whose current aim is to turn Gripoix into a name that stands on its own and has recognition beyond insider circles.
To that end, Keslassy created five entirely new collections, all with different themes. Fans of Chanel’s iconic cross necklaces, sautoirs, and cuffs will instantly spot a family resemblance in the Mythic Parisienne and French Riviera categories. Meanwhile, pieces such as hair combs and toe rings in the Byzantine, Glamour, and Rock ‘n’ Roll ranges are thoroughly modern creations. Nevertheless, all the pieces are still made in Gripoix’s historic ateliers on the Rue Oberkampf. “There is such richness and beauty in the archives,” says Keslassy. “There’s no end to the inspiration to be found there.” She adds, “This project is like bringing Grandma’s armoires back to life.” Well, that is, if you had a very chic mémère. From armoire to boudoir, a rice powder scent and candles will soon join the new lineup. For the time being, Gripoix has found a home in Paris at Colette, which currently has a massive stock of pieces. Its first boutique, however, will be in London at 108 Mount Street, scheduled to open on October 26.