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August 1 2014

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The Underworld Rises Again

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What with both Lady Gaga and Madonna on Saturday Night Live and a corset-crammed Jean Paul Gaultier show, yesterday was quite the moment for innerwear as outerwear. But as our Sarah Mower points out, it was in fact John Galliano who sparked the revival of this old-trend chestnut with his Christian Dior haute-couture show back in July. Galliano continued the idea in his ready-to-wear collection two days ago with a forties glamour in lacy hems and sheer dresses layered over corsets. Is this the logical reaction to a few seasons of urban warriordom? Now that we’ve become weary of shielding ourselves with armor, perhaps it’s time to expose something vulnerable. And what could be more so than your unmentionables? That seemed to be partly the reason Marc Jacobs had—pronouncing himself tired of black and studs—at his Spring show, which wove in an exposed lingerie motif. Not that there isn’t a certain hard-edged facet to this trend. Look at the power of Dolce & Gabbana’s corsets. But there’s something fresh in the softer side, like Peter Copping’s pretty take on the subject at Nina Ricci and Fendi‘s powdery shades; and frilled bras hazily visible through chiffon. Are you ready to expose your inner workings this Spring?

Photos: Marcio Madeira

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