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Waris Conquers All

October 29, 2009 4:07 pm

At Phillips de Pury last night, Waris Ahluwalia debuted the second iteration of the avian-inspired Omnia Vincit Amor (”Love Conquers All”) collection from his House of Waris jewelry line. The new series is less literal than the first, with fewer birds on display. (The exception is a colorful batch of limited-edition enamel pendants inspired by photos of winged creatures by his friend Andrew Zuckerman, which retail at lower price points.)

But the mainline pieces—fit for an exotic queen, or perhaps an arty maharani—are more abstract, a continuation of what the designer calls his “love story.” This love is wild. A filigreed emerald pendant “feels like snakeskin,” while two bracelets (one white diamond, the other black diamond) look like feathers or licks of flame. They appeared ready to claw themselves to a wrist, but Waris prefers to let people decide for themselves. “Whatever my stories are,” he said, “it has to translate into a piece that’s going to work on your body. Hopefully your naked body.”

For all the fantasy, the collection is a result of collaborations with an international network of craftsmen: enamellers in India, a computer-design whiz in New York, Bangkok’s pavé-diamond masters. Waris added that he’ll be working more with Roman artisans in the future. Their forte? “Charging a lot.” But when you love the pieces—and it’s not hard to—omnia vincit amor at the register, too.

—Darrell Hartman

Photo: SHAUN MADER/ PatrickMcMullan.com

tags: Waris Ahluwalia