August 29 2014

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A Man’s World


Menswear has long lived in the shadow of its more flamboyant sister, but if retail numbers are to be believed, the guys are catching up—and now they’ve got a new CFDA-approved guidebook, too. At the Ace Hotel last night, Assouline and the CFDA toasted American Fashion Menswear, a comprehensive history edited by former New York Times Magazine men’s fashion director Robert E. Bryan. The tome covers everything from early denim workwear to contemporary sportswear, though Bryan, wearing an immaculate thirties double-breasted suit, does seem to have a soft spot for the tailored stuff. “Menswear started with only suits,” he explained. “Sportswear can be great, but it bothers me today when I see this nonchalance. It’s more affected when you pretend you don’t care.”

There were plenty of designers on hand, including Phillip Lim, Jeff Halmos, Sam Shipley, and Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli, who might argue that, sportswear or not, the guys care plenty. “These days, men are actually sophisticated shoppers,” said Richard Chai. “They know what they want.” And, added Rag & Bone’s David Neville, they stick around once they get it. “Men are such a different customer. If you win them, they will be committed to your entire message.”




  1. dinstyqa says:


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