Milan Menswear: Marni’s Saving Grace
I’d already been through the racks of Marni’s fall collection for men when Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer herself, popped out of a door in the wall of the showroom. “What kind of man do you imagine in these clothes?” I wondered. “Gorgeous ones,” she answered. I pushed her a bit, and she specified architects, musicians…. I was having a little trouble with that idea, because the collection itself had a resolutely undeclarative flatness. Sure, there were clever touches—like the puffa sewn inside a tweed jacket, or the jacket that reversed to a raincoat—but otherwise, it was hard to imagine Marni’s fall menswear galvanizing creative types. Then I saw the lookbook, which features U.K. model Ash Stymest, he of the extreme tatts and kickass att. He looked like an angel. Okay, fashion is alchemy, and I stand corrected on the transformative power of Marni’s new menswear.