Osklen Takes A Trip To The City For Fall-------
“My winter collection is inspired by my summer collection,” Osklen’s Oskar Metsavaht told us at São Paulo fashion week. That last one was a minimalist take on carnival, but this season he’s reining in the samba for more somber tones. “All my work is about duality. I juxtapose symbolic, textural, conceptual, and visual opposites,” he explained. A felt bikini—not exactly what one would think of for fun in the sun—illustrated the point. “The choice in fabric was inspired by the Soviet Union’s army coats that they wore in winter and humanity’s first attempts to wrap themselves in animal skins.”
The person wearing the bikini probably would have accomplished more in boosting morale than in keeping warm during the fighting at Stalingrad. But that felt turned out to be a key fabric for Metsavaht’s collection. His sculpted dresses, menswear-style jackets, and molded coats were beautifully crafted, and their hard edges and overt seams were architectural, almost a mirror of the city’s modern skyline. Even an excursion to warmer climes—by way of a series of tropical-print pieces—kept the urban scene close in mind, rendering the usually vibrant landscape prints in tough, cool cityscape grays.