Pitti Uomo, Day 1: The Nilsson Rating-------
Today, the first day of Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, is also the beginning of eight nonstop weeks of fashion shows for Fall 2010. The challenge that presents to average energy levels possibly accounted for the low-key atmosphere at Pitti itself. On the other hand, it could have been the lowering cloud cover in Tuscany—or maybe just tightened purse strings.
But those weren’t in evidence at the debut of Mr. Nils, Lars Nilsson’s collection for men, where the prosecco flowed like…wine. After so many false starts designing for other labels, Nilsson deserves a little love. He should get it for the movie he made in Sweden to go with the collection. Whether he’ll get it for the clothes—dressy outerwear and graphic knits—is up in the air, though evening jackets had an attractive Bogey cut, and a truncated ski boot already looked like a smart urban option if next winter shapes up to be as extreme as this one. The show setting—a museum devoted to the big, bold sculpture of Marino Marini—was a reminder of how spoiled by venues designers who show in old Italian cities are.
Stefano Tonchi also felt the location love as he launched his new book on Walter Albini at the costume gallery in the Palazzo Pitti. The disco life and times of “the first Italian fashion designer as superstar” (Tonchi’s words) are headily evoked in the book itself, and the cover art by Francesco Vezzoli strikes an appropriate note of slightly triste glamour. But, aside from Tonchi—with shirt unbuttoned to there—the only person channeling the late Albini’s brio was Silvia Orso Bertolini, wife of Pitti supremo Raffaello Napoleone, in a bejeweled dress by Peter Pilotto.