Spurr, Of The Moment-------
Simon Spurr’s stated goal is the creation of “an American luxury menswear label,” but it was his own Englishness that gave his new collection its character—and not just because of Pete Doherty, voice on the soundtrack, hat on the catwalk. So better make that Anglo-American etc. etc. There was a rakishness (Spurr called it “swagger”) to a black-and-white striped op-art suit or a three-piece in a black-and-white check that had less to do with the American school of Mr. Lauren (where Spurr earned his spurs) than the international school of Mr. Ford. Last season, Alain Delon’s loucheness was the designer’s reference point, and that decadent spirit lingered in a low-belted black trench or the double-breasted jackets shown shirtless. But the sharp-dressed man I was thinking about this time was Michael Caine in his Alfie/Harry Palmer period. (The statement eyewear was a clue.) Spurr offered a complete wardrobe for the dandy hound on the hunt. Admittedly, such a creature is a trifle démodé, so I imagine Spurr’s fans gravitating more to the modern mix of formal and casual he proposed. A grey flannel double-breasted jacket with sweatpants? The luxury is in the attitude.
For complete coverage of Fall 2010 menswear, visit www.gq.com/fashion.