The Finery Things
With an elegantly generic name and modest founder, it’s likely that you haven’t heard of fledgling label Standard Finery. That should change—particularly if you’re feeling for a softer sensibility in the wake of urban warrior-dom.
Designer Caron Callahan started the label three seasons ago, after working for Tracy Feith for three years and doing short stints at both Derek Lam and Steven Alan. All that experience has clearly paid off. Finery strikes a very, ahem, fine (and not easily achieved) balance: It’s simple but not basic, feminine but not twee, youthful but not young, and polished but not overly proper.
“I want women to wear my pieces season after season,” said Callahan at the presentation, where her 14 models stood amid a set of wooden crates and fallen leaves. “I want them to feel good. I want the pieces to be easy.” Named “Aki in Love,” Fall 2010 was inspired by the Met’s Art of the Samurai show—not by the armor but by the functional cotton pieces they wore underneath. Dresses and camisoles were tucked and draped to echo that fluidity, while others hung straight down in a surprisingly alluring midi length. Callahan’s tailoring had a certain ease, like the softly cut kimono coat over rose-printed pants. But it was a nude brocade tux jacket that we hope to see at Finery’s stockists, like Castor & Pollux and Mick Margo.