September 2 2014

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The Future Perfect At Calvin Klein Collection


All season long, I’ve been craving for some designer to do real justice to the remarkable contribution James Cameron has made to popular culture with Avatar, the way that he treated a familiar story in a mind-bogglingly unfamiliar way. Maybe Italo Zucchelli’s new men’s collection for Calvin Klein is as close as I’ll get. Zucchelli transfigured a handful of menswear clichés with fabric technology so that they became something quite new. A suit is just a jacket and a pair of pants, after all, but cut them out of Mylar (which, according to Zucchelli, is supremely difficult to work with) and you’ve got yourself an outfit that has the eldritch sheen of a seagull plucked from an oil slick. The drift of the collection was texture and finish: the pebbling on leather, the ribbing on knits, and the combination of the two, like the brown leather blouson wiht the ribbed knit lapel. I don’t mean to suggest complication: A leather jacket and jeans was as straightforward an outfit as anything Zucchelli has ever proposed. But still, there is an elusive futuristic edge to everything he does. Once, I would have settled on Gattaca. This time, the dramatic outerwear suggested Lemmy Caution, the trenchcoat-wearing ‘tec in Jean-Luc Godard’s Alphaville. It went so well with the multilple mixes of The xx’s “Basic Space” that accompanied the show. The look—and the sound—of the future.
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Photo: Andrew Thomas



  1. TighimogP says:

    Gattaca is exactly the easiest one I’m reminded of after seeing the suit. Although I hope the intention of the design is far from Gattaca’s since elitism isn’t exactly a great way to follow now that everybody, including the one making ingenious suits, is into alternatives that answer the green issues.

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