Topman At Attention-------
Topman has been a major underwriter of the growing men’s fashion scene in London, as well as a participant in the MAN group show that, in the past, helped designers like Kim Jones to find their feet in the business. Today, the last day of London fashion week, Topman finally flew solo, with a whole show devoted to the label’s Fall collection. It was brilliant. Kudos to design director Gordon Richardson and his creative team, but the shadowy genius behind the presentation was stylist Alister Mackie. He took the same military tack as Christopher Bailey at Burberry, referencing the precision, the cut, the color scheme of army uniforms from both world wars. And Mackie proved, like Bailey before him, that there is no better-looking coat than an officer’s coat. The parkas were pretty cool, too. But the collection wasn’t simply a soldier’s story redux. While Topman was still part of a group show, there were restrictions on the breadth of the offering. Today, Mackie was able to show some great knitwear and ombré prints that looked a little like war-blasted terrain, or maybe just trees in winter. Either way, a reminder that Mackie is a dark soul. But, thinking of the many collections he’s brought his unique tweaks to in the past—Marc Jacobs, Fendi, McQueen, Lanvin—he’s just about the best natural asset Topman could have right now.