The Hemp Suit, Now Giggle-Free
Change is in the air at Edun, Ali Hewson’s eco-friendly, ethical line: a new creative director (Sharon Wauchob), a new corporate parent (LVMH), and some prime new real estate at Bloomingdale’s for her men’s pre-fall collection. All of that is new except menswear, which Edun has been doing since the line was founded—but, says Hewson, you’d be forgiven if even that is news to you. “Most people don’t realize that we do men’s,” she admits with a little laugh. “So it’s great to see it here in its own light.” Designed by a transitional team before Wauchob fully takes the reins for Spring ’11, the pre-fall collection is nevertheless a step forward for the brand. It introduces outerwear, a new category for the label, including a cropped leather jacket (in responsible by-product leather) and a full-length snorkel coat. The concept of hemp suiting usually is enough to raise an eyebrow, but Edun may well reclaim it from Woody Harrelson territory with a slouchy, double-breasted version (the jacket is pictured, left, with Edun jeans). A renewed commitment to fits and production should help all of it find a new public. So should the label’s first New York fashion week presentation, when Wauchob shows her first men’s and women’s collections jointly this September.