A New Lease On Life For A Fifties Frock-------
Of all the revivals currently playing on the fashion landscape, Carven is relishing un certain succès. By 8 p.m. on Monday, several of Guillaume Henry’s jackets for the label for Fall—notably a black one with shaved fur trim and a slim wraparound belt—had already blown out of the brand’s pop-up shop inside the Didier Ludot boutique at the Palais Royal. The designer himself was on hand—alongside a few Carven-clad models, a slew of Parisian fashion plates, and the ubiquitous Jared Leto—for public conversation with Ludot (above right, with the designer), with whom he created a limited-edition L.B.D. for summer, based on an archival Carven piece of the couture historian’s.
“We called it a ‘conversation’ about a dress, because it’s about old and new, but without pretension or being stuck in the past—it’s really easy, like Champagne,” said Henry. Of the original model, a pleated, draped 1956 dress in less-than-mint condition, Ludot added, “Now this was a dress that lived!” Together, the designers revisited the original idea in technical organza, belting it for a sporty, modern twist (middle), Henry explained. Displayed front and center in Ludot’s shop window, the two dresses are backed up by a handful of vintage numbers—a red bustier dress, a simple dress in precious lace, a summery yellow and orange print—topped with current Carven creations, like a capelet or a leather jacket, for example. Back in the garden, a model wore this summer’s L.B.D. with towering silver pumps. “Already in the fifties, Carven did not differentiate enormously between day and night,” noted Henry. “Even when she used precious materials, she kept it simple. For me, that’s modernity.”
Models in Carven.
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