Rihanna’s Couturier Lets The Fur Fly
Only four seasons in, the young French couturier Alexandre Vauthier is hot. He was nominated for the ANDAM prize this year (he recently lost out to Hakaan Yildirim), and his sexy, shoulders-out-to-there look has found favor with both Madonna and Rihanna (specifically for the latter’s standout tour numbers). It doesn’t get much hotter than that. For his fourth couture show, staged in the column-lined basement of Paris’ Institut du Monde Arabe, Vauthier called in a little help from Simon Henwood (a.k.a. RiRi’s creative director and Róisín Murphy’s husband), who created a flashing light backdrop for the collection, titled Geometry.
If his shoulders were a tad reduced from Spring, the clothes were still plenty flashy, as, one imagines, Rihanna and her ilk require. First, a parade of girls with giant fox fur shoulders and sleek skirts—think King Kong above, Fay Wray below—and, to finish, Jess Stam glittering in a pagoda-shouldered, gold sequined wrap with plunging neckline. And although Vauthier is interested in building his ready-to-wear business (his clothing and accessories are for now sold exclusively at Paris’ tony department store Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche), he’s a couturier at heart. Chalk it up to three years with Thierry Mugler and eight years overseeing couture for Gaultier. This collection features embroidery from Lesage, plumes from Lemarié, spike-covered heels from Christian Louboutin, SAGA furs, and enough Swarovski crystals to re-sink the Titanic. And word is, he’s just completed a scent with his pal Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Gaultier’s successful Le Mâle.