It May Be Stockholm Fashion Week,
But For Acne, London’s Calling
Hot on the heels of its big July store opening on Dover Street, Acne is doing its first true runway show in London on September 19. The venue is an apartment at Kensington Palace that is the former residence of Princess Margaret and Lord Snowdon; the brand’s creative director, Jonny Johansson, discovered it while scouting a sunken garden at the royal complex. “There was a door open when we were going through a back office, and I saw this super-strong turquoise,” he recalls. “The apartments are really tiny, but that color just drew me in.”
Johansson (left), in jeans and T-shirt, is quietly recalling all this from the center of his own somewhat palatial domain: his light-filled office at the brand’s Stockholm headquarters, housed in an imposing old bank. Some of the locals are disappointed that Acne isn’t even showing a pre-collection at Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week, which wraps up today. (It’s the first time that Mercedes has taken Sweden’s shows under its international fashion week umbrella, which currently covers New York, Miami, and Berlin, too.) But Johansson’s plate is more than full with London, where Acne has only done salon-style shows in the past.
And what will we see in London this time around? “A lot of sheer, a large amount of leather,” he explains. “I can’t say we have a lot of denim this season, but it’s a denim look, a tough look.” Throw in another eyewear collaboration with Thierry Lasry and jewelry (once again) by Husam El Odeh, and you’ve got an idea of the show—oh, and something involving a tattoo artist. But Johansson left it at that.