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April 21 2014

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Footwear Fit For The Gods?

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Call me crazy, but do I detect a hint of mythology in the Spring footwear we’re seeing right now? I need to consult the Oracle at Delphi to be sure, but there was something a little Grecian about the gorgeous, cut-out heels at Dries (left)—they revealed just a slip of the heel right where the warrior hero Achilles was held when he got dipped in the River Styx to safeguard him from harm. (Hence, of course, the expression, “Achilles heel”—the one undipped, ergo unprotected, spot.) And over at Carven, Guillaume Henry showed pumps with arrayed with little tufts of fabric shooting to the sides (right). Hermes, the messenger god, had wings on his shoes, too—though if I recall, he only wore flats.

Photos: Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com (Dries); Courtesy of Carven

Hell-Bent, But Not For Leather

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“I grew tired of seeing the same leather bags season after season,” says Simone Harouche, the designer behind Simone Camille bags. “I wanted something with texture, embellishment, a sense of humor, and color, so I decided to try and make one myself.” Other women, apparently, shared the feeling. The bag Harouche ended up designing—an updated version of the classic, South American mochila—ended up selling out on Net-a-Porter and making headlines.

If you find a good thing, go with it—which is exactly what the newfound designer is doing with the new clutch she’s launching for Resort. “I’m aware that some women don’t like or need to carry that much—one woman in particular being my mother,” she laughs. “She loves my bags but says they’re too big for her, and she asked me, ‘When are you going to make a bag small enough for me to carry?’ ” As opposed to the embroidered textures on her oversized purses, each one-of-a-kind clutch is handcrafted using ikat prints sourced from India and Uzbekistan, among other far-flung locales, and features vintage embellishments you won’t see on anyone else. That’s a guarantee. “Every piece of fabric I use is vintage,” Harouche says. “It’s virtually impossible to find again.”

Photo: Courtesy of Simone Camille

Carine Thinks You’re Pretty Vain, No Brights At Ungaro, Where Björk Met McQueen, And More…

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In advance of Paris Vogue‘s 90th anniversary party tonight, Eric Wilson sits down with editrix Carine Roitfeld for a chat. The whole thing’s worth reading, for Carine’s thoughts on what is and isn’t Vogue and who’s on next, but forgive us if we’re most interested in her dream of opening a karaoke bar. Her song of choice? “You’re So Vain,” which she says aptly describes her industry. [NYT]

Giles Deacon is in Paris prepping his first collection for Emanuel Ungaro, and he promises one thing—no neon brights. He’ll be focusing on the house’s print heritage, as well as including plenty of lace. [WWD]

Björk, who sang at Alexander McQueen’s memorial in London during LFW (left), shares her memories of the designer with GQ U.K. “He was the kind of daredevil that looks death and birth straight in the eye,” the Icelandic pop star says. “Lee managed to connect not only with the civilized part of his culture but somehow channel beyond that a more primordial energy, which is probably where me and him met.” Well, come on, you didn’t think it was going to be in a Marks & Spencer, did you? [GQ U.K. via Vogue U.K.]

And kudos to Balenciaga, for some of the more varied runway casting we’ve seen this season: returning supes Amber Valletta and Carolyn Murphy, sure, but what about pregnant Miranda Kerr? [Stylelist]

Photo: Graham Lacao / Alexander McQueen / Getty Images

In Paris, Punk’s Not Dead

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Two days into the Paris shows, the spirit of ’77 is in the air. It’s never blared more clearly than at Balmain (and the soundtrack, by the way, was Sid Vicious’ famous cover of Sinatra’s “My Way”). Christophe Decarnin has long borrowed punk culture’s tropes, but the affect here was full-on mosh pit: tattered fishnets, ragged cutoffs, moto jackets and vests festooned with safety pins and band buttons (above). You could’ve been waiting on line for a Johnny Thunders show—a very expensive one.



At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière seemed to be marching to the beat, too. He also showed motorcycle jackets like the punkers used to wear, though his weren’t in shreds. But the piece-y crop tops his models sported looked like the DIY haircuts you used to see administered in the bathroom at rock shows, and the iridescent, thick-soled flats (above) looked a little like the Creepers those girls used to wear. (Shoes, by the way, that have also influenced footwear in seasons past at Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang.)



Face piercings, too, have been popping up on the runway, not only in Europe but in New York, too. Alexander Wang sent models out with septum rings at his austere, mostly-white show (above left). Charlotte Ronson put her girls in nose and lip rings for a nineties grunge-girl look (above center). And at Hakaan yesterday, every model wore a simulated bridge piercing, high on the nose—what the kids call an Earl (above right).

Photos: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com (Balmain); Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com (Balenciaga, Alexander Wang); Simone Leonardi / GoRunway.com (Hakaan); Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com (Charlotte Ronson)

Talk Supe At Hakaan’s After-Party

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When Naomi Campbell swept into Le Montana last night for ANDAM winner Hakaan Yildirim’s after-party, she pursed her lips and gently shook her head at an intrepid reporter’s tape recorder in a gesture at least as old as Garbo. But no matter. The stonewalling supermodel’s presence itself spoke volumes. It may not have been the party of the night—an honor reserved for a veteran, not a relative rookie—but it was a required stop for the girls who made the show a hit both on the runway and in the front row. That includes Eva Herzigova, Anja Rubik, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Natalia Vodianova (who came by early with Jefferson Hack), as well as fashion folk like Giambattista Valli, Charlotte Dellal, and Hidetoshi Nakata. Also taking in the dark, smoky scene were visiting New Yorkers Thakoon Panichgul, Lorenzo Martone, and Suno duo Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty.

Campbell commandeered the best downstairs booth with a perfect view of the dance floor, where she sat with boyfriend, Vladislav Doronin, and Bar Refaeli, the latter keeping an eye on beau Leonardo DiCaprio. (Though Leo, with baseball cap pulled low, wasn’t so much dancing as swaying with the shoulder-to-shoulder crowd.) For his part, Yildirim (above, with Arizona Muse and Lindsey Wixson) pronounced himself “happy but just very tired.” That wasn’t entirely the case with the line’s creative director (and photographer), Mert Alas, who played the host. “I liked it, but I’m never happy,” said Alas, half in jest. “You know when you have a perfect vision of how it should be? So I hate it all.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com