September 2 2014

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In Paris, Punk’s Not Dead


Two days into the Paris shows, the spirit of ’77 is in the air. It’s never blared more clearly than at Balmain (and the soundtrack, by the way, was Sid Vicious’ famous cover of Sinatra’s “My Way”). Christophe Decarnin has long borrowed punk culture’s tropes, but the affect here was full-on mosh pit: tattered fishnets, ragged cutoffs, moto jackets and vests festooned with safety pins and band buttons (above). You could’ve been waiting on line for a Johnny Thunders show—a very expensive one.

At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière seemed to be marching to the beat, too. He also showed motorcycle jackets like the punkers used to wear, though his weren’t in shreds. But the piece-y crop tops his models sported looked like the DIY haircuts you used to see administered in the bathroom at rock shows, and the iridescent, thick-soled flats (above) looked a little like the Creepers those girls used to wear. (Shoes, by the way, that have also influenced footwear in seasons past at Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang.)

Face piercings, too, have been popping up on the runway, not only in Europe but in New York, too. Alexander Wang sent models out with septum rings at his austere, mostly-white show (above left). Charlotte Ronson put her girls in nose and lip rings for a nineties grunge-girl look (above center). And at Hakaan yesterday, every model wore a simulated bridge piercing, high on the nose—what the kids call an Earl (above right).

Photos: Monica Feudi / (Balmain); Gianni Pucci / (Balenciaga, Alexander Wang); Simone Leonardi / (Hakaan); Yannis Vlamos / (Charlotte Ronson)

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