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April 20 2014

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Louise Goldin Skips Show for SHOWStudio

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There seemed to be a palpable sense of confusion and then relief among editors who walked into Louise Goldin’s presentation at London’s St. Martins Lane Hotel to find just four sparse racks of clothes. Is that it? went the collective thought. On each hung the same six or seven pieces of minimal, body-con knitwear with sheer stripes—a long dress, a top pieced with jacquard, a T-shirt, a mini skirt, a maxi—in four different colors: red, camel, white and black.

Turns out this was just the first part of a two pronged attack. Goldin herself was making the rounds, a glass of champagne in hand. “I think its really important to say that I wanted to work on my business this season,” she explained. “This knitwear needs an incredible, incredible amount of manufacturing support, and there was no point in me dashing out shows that can’t be produced.”

Instead, Goldin is showing the collection a few weeks after Paris fashion week wraps up in an interactive film, naturally with SHOWStudio’s Nick Knight. For two days, the pair—along with a hair and makeup team—will have a supermodel in a studio and get about 80 different people who sign up to direct her movements and a few other variable elements. And all of it is done by Skype. “People can be involved in the process of a show,” said Goldin. “It’s inclusive—not just like, ‘Oh you can’t come to my show.’”

But as Goldin explained, the film has the potential to be more than simply a neat alternative to the classic runway format. She and Knight are exploring the idea of incorporating e-commerce where you can click on a film still and buy you’re seeing. But Goldin stressed that it’s still a work in progress. “I’m talking to my factory about it, to say, ‘What if we get 20,000 orders? Will you be able to make them?’” she said.

Hopefully Goldin’s new role as knitwear designer at the house of Versace will help to expedite her production. In the meantime, give her credit for thinking outside of the established system about how best to showcase herself and her work—a move that might just lead to those 20,000 orders in the end.

Photo: Nick Knight

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