A Visit To Delfina Delettrez’s Wonderland
It’s surpringly easy to get seduced by the world of Delfina Delettrez Fendi. In fact, you quite happily drop down the rabbit hole into a place where the nunlike propriety of a governess’ dress bumps up against slugs, skulls, the Kama Sutra, and Virginia Woolf. All you need to feel just like Alice are little signs that say: “Wear Me.”
For Spring, Fendi was inspired by empowered women like Woolf and George Sand, who appropriated menswear for empowerment; and a former nanny whose black dress with a white crocheted collar the designer saw as slyly perverted. She dubbed the collection We-Man, and most pieces were based on a shirt collars and cuffs. Simple trompe l’oeil collar necklaces looked like your button-down had been dipped in silver; one was paved with a plaid motif with diamonds and pink and blue sapphires. A bronzy bib offered you an entire dickie, and if you looked closely you could see tiny, almost pearl-like skulls embedded within. Another collar had an orgiastic relief carved into it. Bow ties became silver brooches of various sizes.
Fendi presented those on a row of finely knit plain black sweaters and dresses, and she paid further homage to that nanny in collars and cuffs crocheted from real silver thread. Then, on white monogrammed shirts with disembodied mannequin hands, were big glossy silver shirt cuff-inspired pieces with chunky colored stones, and shirt buttons in gold and silver turned into delicate charm bracelets. The fantastical foil to the salaryman chic came in a double ring of a carved silver slug carrying a big yellow sapphire on its back, and big, bold bracelets of silver lobster claws. It was enough to induce a bijoux-buying binge should you be liquid enough to do so. No instructional “Wear Me” or, rather, “Buy Me” placards needed.