Calla, In Bloom
The nice thing about fashion awards (and, well, awards in general) is that even when you don’t win the big prize, a mere nomination comes with its own afterglow. That’s the case with ANDAM nominee Calla Haynes, a Canadian expat whose résumé includes five years working for Olivier Theyskens at both Rochas and Nina Ricci. This season, her third, marked Haynes’ first official presentation and means a bit more breathing room for sales appointments with retailers like Barneys New York’s Julie Gilhart and Judy Collinson, who both stopped by the little Palais Royal gallery. “You should have seen the place where we were the past two seasons,” said Haynes. “It was literally ten-by-ten meters.”
Digital prints became Haynes’ specialty on Team Theyskens, and are now essential to her own line. For Spring, there was a tile print inspired by the work of the French sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle, and a few lovely painterly motifs abstract enough that you’d probably never guess their origins of black sand beaches in Mexico and Calla lilies. Another building block: an easy elegance that reconciles some of the ultra-feminine, demi-couture work she’s done in the past with everyday wearability. Haynes repeatedly pointed out the lack of zippers. “I love the idea of a satin dress that pulls on like a T-shirt,” she explained. But while you can also pull on a full skirt with big pockets over a bustier and peasant blouse, its elastic waistband is painstakingly hand-stitched. Calla is currently available at Opening Ceremony and Maria Luisa, but we think you can get ready to see much more of her infectious SoCal-by-way-of-the-Second-Arrondissement vibe.