Chaos And Country At Marc Jacobs-------
Marc Jacob’s eponymous men’s collection drew on the forties, with elements of aristocratic country clothes showing up via the tweeds and fur accents that have been a big part of Milan’s menswear this season. Like many others, this collection emphasized tailoring and soft volume, though the shoulders here were strong. The lighter, smirkier side of the label came through via a collaboration with Brooklyn graffiti artist Bäst, whose chaotic graphics were screened on shirts and sweaters and made into carpet bags (an emerging unisex trend?). But somehow they felt more like what you’d find in the designer’s Jacobs or Marc By lines. A more germane injection of levity and wit came from the revival of knits from seasons past: A cashmere T-shirt and a series of sweaters treated to look pilled seemed lived-in, like old favorites.