In Paris, Toasting Ten Years of Yohji At Adidas
It’s been ten years since Yohji Yamamoto first collaborated with Adidas, a collaboration which eventually became the full Y-3 collection. On the last night of men’s fashion week in Paris, Adidas set out to celebrate the decennial at the city’s Maison des Métallos, where sneakers from throughout the partnership’s history were on display and a film the German label commissioned about Y-3′s Spring collection, Yohji Yamamoto: This Is My Dream, was projected on the wall. The Japanese legend himself was under the weather and couldn’t attend but his collaborator, Adidas Sports Style (a division which includes Y-3) creative director Dirk Schoenberger, was happy to hymn him in his absence. “Working with Yohji is working with one of the few iconic designers alive, basically,” Schoenberger said, praising his “unique voice” and the alchemy of mixing his vision of fashion with sportswear. Speaking of that admixture—what, then, to expect of Y-3′s next collection, which will be shown in New York in February? The creative director was shy on the topic. “I don’t want to give away too much,” he demurred. But those looking for a preview needed only look to another chamber of the space, where, on a mini-runway, models in groups of fives walked in place on embedded treadmills (a very clever combination of fashion and sporting, that). There were tailored pieces like a black blazer featuring sporty nylon sleeves and varsity-jacket banding at the waist and cuffs, and Fair Isle knits scattered throughout, whether as a soft-looking hoodie or the sleeves of another, blue blazer.