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August 31 2014

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Caution: Objects Seen Through Ring May Be Smaller Than They Appear

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Delfina Delettrez seems to have the most fun of any designer out there. To wit, she based her entire Fall jewelry collection on a table-sized shoe-sorting contraption from the fifties found in an old factory in Florence. It was also the physical star of her presentation yesterday, with all her new pieces displayed on its constantly rotating trays. Painted grass green, it was like something out of a old cartoon. “I want to have a dinner party on it,” Delettrez joked. “A sushi bar.”

That movement was key, and it extended to the pieces, too. Cuffs and earrings were made of concentric enameled circles that swung open like gyroscopes. Sleek cuffs were dotted with fat natural pearls and little charms, which spun around in their settings.

There was more visual wit in a braided necklace in gold, white, and rose gold that Delettrez suggested wearing down your back like hair, and a ring with a magnifying glass. “The idea is to wear it with another jewel so that the stone looks bigger,” she said. That should make it a perfect gift for that dissatisfied married friend who thinks that size matters.

To the side, a series of white lab coats showed off long chains with insect and lip charms. The coats were a nod to her month-old laboratory in Rome where four artisans will be crafting all her wares on-site. The fun continues.

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