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July 24 2014

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On Our Radar: Issey Miyake Spring 2011

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In advance of Issey Miyake’s Fall 2011 womenswear show, the label announced that said collection would be creative director Dai Fujiwara’s last. (They did it in elegant, haute Japanese fashion: by mailed letter. Really, who does such things anymore? I was tempted to reply with a thank-you note.) Fujiwara’s odd, cerebral collections for the label over his five-year tenure have been an outré highlight of the Paris collections. It’ll be sad indeed to see Fujiwara decamp, a sentiment only punched up by the recent delivery of his Spring ’11 menswear to London’s high-concept LN-CC boutique.

The inspiration for the season, we’ll all recall (or maybe we need a refresher) was trout. As in—well, as in trout. Not exactly overfished waters of inspiration, sartorially speaking. In fact, odd enough to give you pause. But in practice, the results are strangely compelling. (And, really, no stranger than, say, bananas.) Call me crazy—my coworkers did, when I emailed around a link—but I can’t stop thinking about this fishhook-printed shirt. It’s vibrantly-hued, fab pieces like these that’ll make Fujiwara hard to replace; that talent for can’t-explain-it-but-want-it is in short supply. What’s next for the designer? Time will tell. One guess: Gone fishin’?

Photo: Courtesy of LN-CC

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