August 29 2014

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Seventies And Saddlery At Nicholas Kirkwood’s Pollini


Nicholas Kirkwood’s first full collection as creative director of Pollini started with a decidedly not Kirkwood-esque flat riding boot—a tidbit of the Italian brand’s heritage—but it didn’t stay there long. “It’s inspired by this equestrian, menswear kind of detailing,” Kirkwood said. “But it’s giving it new life.”

In Kirkwood’s countryside, the Aran knit is turned into a trompe l’oeil printed suede on an open-toed sandal bootie with a gently flared and stacked heel. Hardy Blundstone-esque ankle boots are raised up on needle heels, and his signature cut-out geometric platform sandal now comes in homey brown felt backed with acid-hued leather for slivery flashes of color.

Kirkwood explained that Pollini’s heyday was in the seventies. That brought out jewel-bright suede booties and tasseled pumps, some with gold horse bits. Funnily enough, one of the biggest points of excitement from this footwear virtuoso were the bags. He’s done several styles, but chose to feature just one—a tidy shoulder bag with a smooth arc of brass hardware called the Amisse—in several different fabrications. There was a chocolate-box assortment: a perfect caramel leather along with a rainbow of suedes and classic-hued embossed croc and woven leather. It would be tough to choose just one, but seeing as they all ring in under $1,000, you don’t necessarily have to.

Photo: Courtesy of Pollini

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