August 29 2014

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The Sting’s The Thing At Eddie Borgo


Eddie Borgo first made his mark with spikes and studs, but for his new collection, the New York-based jeweler has evolved his cult cool-kid aesthetic into something more intricate and grown-up. “The collection was inspired by art forms in nature,” said Borgo during his preview in a grandiose apartment at Le Palais Royale. Dressed in his signature black brimmed hat and a skinny tie, the designer thumbed through a book that, dating from the turn of the century, was filled with images of arachnids and spindly flora. This pictorial relic translated into brass necklaces, chokers and cuffs, each of which featured sculptural creepy crawlies with an architectural Art Deco edge.

“I was thinking of a dark, broody character. The themes are gothic and, upon first thought, might be a bit scary. But I wanted to find ways of making those dangerous objects in nature, that are inherently aggressive, soft and covetable,” explained the designer. And while the layered metal wasps, scorpions and praying mantises (yes, the ones that eat their mates) that hung from beads of resin, polished hematite or snowflake jasper were indeed desirable, the designer also made more feminine objects, like orchids and tiger lilies, severe with sharp lines and angular cuts. But for all the angles, there was a softness and movement, too, in lush tassels in warm autumn crimson, rust and black, and hand-dyed pheasant feathers that peeked out of ladybug earrings and a crow-motif necklace.

In addition to debuting his new collection, Borgo is the star of the 20th issue of Claudia Wu’s Me Magazine. Launched at a fete at Colette Friday evening, the new issue is a curated collection of interviews that Borgo conducted with his friends and supporters, Kate Lanphear, Giovanna Battaglia and Joseph Altuzarra among them. “These opportunities only come along once in a lifetime and I wanted to make the magazine a celebration of New York. It’s the best city in the world!” said Borgo. “The people I interviewed each had their own struggle and their own New York story. I think that’s really special and I hope we were able to articulate that in the magazine.”

Photo: Courtesy of Eddie Borgo

Designer Update