At The Table With The Missonis
The first issue of Bon Appetit under new editor in chief Adam Rapoport’s direction promises, via coverline, to teach you to Cook Like A (Real) Italian. No arguing with the real Italians inside, a few of who appear more often in fashion glossies than cooking books. For his fully redesigned debut, Rapoport—the skinny-jean wearing former style editor of GQ—got the Missonis.
“When I was doing fashion, I loved food, and now that I’m kind of doing food, I don’t want to forget about the style and lifestyle elements,” Rapoport said yesterday, in anticipation of tonight’s launch (the issue and its content are now live on BonAppetit.com; hard copies hit newsstands next Tuesday). “I always kind of felt that a good life was a well-rounded life.”
The Missoni clan is famous for their elaborate post-show dinners in Milan, which is where, under the auspices of his GQ gig, Rapoport first met them. For May’s Italian-themed issue, they made perfect sense. Rosita, Tai, Angela, Teresa, and the rest were shot by Alexia Silvagni, and share their family recipes, like baked whole fish with potatoes and lemons, and Tai’s shrimp salad. “The Missoni family, they’re a big fashion famiglia, but they also are a typical Italian family,” Rapoport explained. “They eat together, they’re tightly knit. Rosita, the matriarch, she really knows food and ingredients. She’s got firm opinions about it like a lot of Italian nonnas do.”
There’s no divorcing fashion and food, at least in this family—the clan cooks, drinks, and entertains (at least for magazine-shoot purposes) in full Missoni-knit regalia. And that, Rapoport said, is exactly the point. “Food is about not only the restaurant you’re going to, but who you’re going to the restaurant with, what you’re going to wear, who you’re inviting for dinner… it’s all those things, it’s everything in addition to the meal that makes a great meal.” He was tight-lipped about the next fashionable meal on his docket, but let slip that a Thanksgiving story with a designer is already in the works.