At ITS 10, A Winner (Almost) Lost in Transit-------
It felt like a boys’ club at this year’s ITS (that’s “International Talent Support”) 10, where a menswear-designing gang took most of the prizes at the competition’s tenth anniversary session featuring 11 recent fashion grads from around the globe. Central Saint Martins graduate Shaun Samson won the €15,000 Fashion Collection of the Year award with his collection of men’s tunics, which morph blanket plaids into cable knits thanks to a technique called felting (left). (Those who liked the Californian’s collection have more to look forward to: He’s one of the three young menswear designers selected for London’s Fashion East catwalk this September.) “This is a serious piece of chump change for me,” said Samson, who had a scare when his collection was temporarily lost in transit in Munich on its way to ITS headquarters in Trieste.
Samson was joined in the winner’s circle by Niran Avisar, who scored the €25,000 Diesel award, which includes a six-month internship at the Italian sportswear brand’s headquarters in the Veneto. (Diesel is one of the competition’s sponsors.) Knitwear designer Kevin Kramp won ITS’ first €3,000 Modateca award, endowed by Deanna Ferretti, whose factory has created knits for Kenzo, Yves Saint Laurent, and Maison Martin Margiela. Prizes of €5,000 each went to the Italian designer Kristian Guerra, for his giant down parkas, and to the Estonian designer Oliver Ruuger, who won the Accessories Collection of the Year award for his black leather collection, including a studded, spiked briefcase and an umbrella with a horsehair handle.
“This year was more difficult to judge than last year,” said jury members Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf. Recalling their own debut, Horsting said, “We didn’t have a blueprint. We just knew we wanted to work at the highest level.” Horsting and Snoeren are currently preparing for next year’s launch of the new V&R men’s scent, and the pair have designed costumes for Bob Wilson’s Grace for Grace, a balletic homage to Grace Kelly, set to open in Monaco in September.