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July 22 2014

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In Berlin, A Balance Between Boldness And Practicality

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Ellen von Unwerth has been a constant presence in Berlin for the city’s fashion week, which wrapped up yesterday. “Because I am German, I like my women to be bold and strong, with a sense of joie de vivre,” the photographer explained. She got what she likes at Don’t Shoot the Messengers’ (pictured) debut presentation on the week’s official calendar. Von Unwerth appreciatively snapped the locals—including model/painter Ulrike Theusner and von Unwerth’s pinup muse Eden Berlin—as they modeled sensuous leather and sueded silk pieces by the label’s Berlin-based designers, Jen Gilpin and Kyle Callanan.

DSTM mostly work in black, but for joie de vivre, it’s hard to think of a better color than one that was found on many of the week’s catwalks: acid yellow. That radiant hue was shown in miniskirted suits at Rena Lange, striped silk culottes at Michalsky, and a striking sheer evening gown at Schumacher. (It made you wonder whether German designers had been inspired by Leyla Piedayesh’s psychedelic prints in the shade for her Fall 2011 Lala Berlin collection.) Whatever the case, it made for an appealing jolt to a week most often dominated by practical, commercial collections, such as Hugo Boss, Strenesse Blue, Rena Lange, and Allude. A few exceptions stood out to the basic-is-better rule: the conceptual line Mongrels in Common, for example, or Vladimir Karaleev’s sculptural creations.

Photo: Maxime Ballesteros

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