Kirkwood Makes A Point
The different looks in Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring collection had light-years in between them, or at least the length of a showroom. At one end (displayed proudly in the window) were the madcap, slightly infantile flat-forms he made for Meadham Kirchhoff’s show with pompoms, beading, and metallic frills. On the other: a super-sleek pair of pointy black suede ankle-strap pumps, the kind of thing Carrie Bradshaw would have waxed poetic about in 1998.
The latter is, of course, new ground for Kirkwood, who’s been colonizing new territory every season, like Fall’s foray into (gasp) lower heels. As he pointed out, he’s never really done a pointy toe. But the major news for Spring was a far sweeter attitude. “I just wanted to do something more feminine,” said Kirkwood. Smart move. All the bright colors and floral motifs here track with the lady-fied direction this season, particularly from his fellow young Brits. Kirkwood’s version of feminine entailed flowers in a myriad of forms, including platform pumps covered in neon lace and a digital printed satin, sandals with an upper made of pen-and-ink rose scribble, and gorgeous bloodred strappy sandals topped with a single perfect faille rose.
Kirkwood’s next project is his New York store at 807 Washington Street, right across from the Whitney’s new building. Its opening has been delayed to March, but it will be a stiletto’s throw from Christian Louboutin’s Horatio Street boutique. Can we expect a Meatpacking District shoe-down?