August 22 2014

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Fashion Group International Discusses the Good—and What’s More Fun, the Bad—of Spring 2012


Fashion Group International convened a crowd at the Time-Life Building in New York yesterday to screen its Trend Overview of the Spring ’12 collections. The 30-minute video report by FGI creative director Marylou Luther, which included a 3-D segment by Norma Kamali, offered a detailed review of the colors, textiles, prints, cuts, beauty, accessories, and themes of the runway collections of all four fashion capitals (New York, London, Milan, and Paris). Special recognition was given to Thom Browne, for the innovative style of his tableaux vivants presentation; to Rodarte, which was dubbed “California Couture”; and to Chado Ralph Rucci, for being “American ready-to-wear at its highest.”

But as Isaac Mizrahi, who moderated a panel discussion on seasonal trends after the screening with Scott Schuman, Ikram Goldman, Saks Fifth Avenue’s accessories director, Elizabeth Kanfer, and W beauty director Jane Larkworthy, noted, “It’s much more fun to talk about the things we don’t like.” His answer: the tendency for overstyling on the runway. “If you saw a woman walking down the street like that, you would think ‘you poor thing,’” he said. Extravagant styling and theatrics may make for a good show, others agreed, but according to Goldman, at the end of the day, what influences a buyer is the product and the product alone. “Regardless of how exciting and well-produced the show may be,” she said, “when it’s over I go to the showroom and I look at the clothes as they are, and if they can’t stand alone, I don’t buy them.”

Photo: Will Ragozzino /

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