On Our Radar: Kenzo Accessories
The appointment of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim as creative directors of Kenzo shook up Paris—and, incidentally, gave us one of Spring ’12′s most energetic shows. But now that the dust has settled and the collection is making its way around the world on its whistlestop press tour, it’s the product, not its designers, that’s garnering attention and accolades. At an appointment yesterday, I had the chance to get up close and personal with the Spring collection, which is big on couture-inspired volume, reversible garments, and trompe l’oeil prints (parrots made out of shells!). But it’s the duo’s accessories that stuck with me in particular—especially given their reasonable price point. (When they hit Barneys next year, they’ll be sold in Co-Op.) Lim and Leon made good use of off-kilter materials like rubber tubing, plasticized raffia, and string mesh, creating foulard-tail baseball caps with exaggerated bills, mesh-covered boaters, mini backpacks, and bucket bags in pop colors. If they skew a little to the young and the shameless (to say nothing of the restless), I’d say that’s exactly the point. There’s brawn behind the buzz.