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April 24 2014

styledotcom .@marinalarroude rounds up the best black & gold finds from Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs & more: stylem.ag/1jBvRO9 pic.twitter.com/FjB5WLZ2nI

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Valentino’s Anniverary, Your Present

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Just last week, Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli fêted the opening of the brand’s new Milan flagship store to coincide with the house’s 50th anniversary. Along with several more new store openings (on Rodeo Drive and Madison Avenue) to mark the anniversary, the duo created a limited-edition 50-piece capsule collection of ready-to-wear and accessories pieces (which editors got a preview of at last week’s party). A highlight of the collection is the outerwear, made of cashmere and wool cloth, offered in a zoo of animal prints that also carry over into silk scarves. Also among the offerings are lace-pleated skirts and shorts, studded bangles, and hobo bags. Here, a look at a few of our favorite coats in the collection, available in the Milan store now, and then in the L.A. shop March 27 and the New York store later this fall.

Photos: Courtesy of Valentino

Dior’s New Mag, Another Topless Cover For Kate Moss, Marc Jacobs On The Louis Vuitton Exhibit, And More…

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Christian Dior is expanding its digital presence with the launch of DiorMag (via Dior.com) today. The house plans to update the digital magazine daily, with content including images of past collections, backstories on Dior products, and longer-format videos. [WWD]

Kate Moss, never afraid to show some skin, appears topless on the cover of Another Man‘s new issue. However, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton was commissioned to design the few inches of fabric Moss is wearing. [Another Mag]

Marc Jacobs—who has an upcoming retrospective of his 15 years at Louis Vuitton—doesn’t like the idea of fashion exhibitions. “I always find it a bit difficult to deal with the idea of fashion and museums,” Jacobs tells British Vogue. The designer explains that the show, which was emotional for him to curate, will feature static, interactive content, such as music, video, and moving mannequins. [Vogue U.K.]

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund enlisted ten young designers to reimagine a Tommy Hilfiger classic, the trenchcoat, as part of the Americans in Paris showroom initiative. Designs by Prabal Gurung, Creatures of the Wind, Billy Reid, and more will be available at Tommy Hilfiger flagships in New York and Paris starting Saturday. [WWD]

Photo: Vogue U.K.

Fashion Week, Seen By A Slightly Jaundiced Eye

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Season in, season out, vintage couture dealer Didier Ludot creates a fashion week happening by displaying selected couture pieces in his Palais Royal shop windows, often highlighting a young designer’s work along the way. This season, the vintage guru takes a slightly different tack, rifling through the work of artist Thierry Bruet for a selection of paintings of fashion’s demimonde, rendered with a slightly cynical edge and a knowing wink. No surprise here; Bruet modeled for Saint Laurent back in the day, so he’s met a character or two.

“I love Thierry’s work—it’s so caustic and insolent,” says Ludot, who owns several pieces. Together, the two assembled a collection of art and fashion to go with it: sky blue and almond green Dior couture pieces from 1968 offset the painting Fashion Week (pictured), and a 1966 Chanel couture suit with a grosgrain bustier keeps company with a portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel at a certain age. An eclectic quartet—a 1937 silk velvet dress by Lanvin, a 1959 tulle dress by Saint Laurent for Dior, a 1963 Balenciaga dress in red gazar with matching cape, and a 1970 orange dress by Courrèges—stand before the artist’s sly ode to vanity, a portraitist rendering a lady in red much younger and more beautiful than she is. Part of the game is recognizing characters drawn from real life (legendary Bazaar editor Carmel Snow, for example), but even the sharpest eyes may not register that Bruet’s work crops up all over town: His bestiaries regularly grace the windows of the Hermès flagship, and selected portraits hang in the bar of the Shangri-La and the spa at the Bristol.

Illustration: Thierry Bruet

A Boys-Only Club No More

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No yang is complete without a yin—exactly why designer Jun Takahashi has created a womenswear line to go with his already existing Nike x Undercover Gyakusou men’s collection. The designer, a dedicated member of the Tokyo-based runners club Team GIRA, first decided to combine his athletic passions with his design skills back in 2010, when he launched the menswear collection of light jackets and sneakers. The new womenswear collection, launching globally in mid-March, is equally full of function-meets-fashion pieces. Takahashi has thought of it all—carefully developed pockets for carrying keys in silence, underarm openings for max ventilation, and the list goes on.

But he does not sacrifice style. The womenswear collection, in natural colors like olive khaki, peat moss, and midnight fog, includes skirts with pleating (without compromising freedom of motion) and gathers in strategically placed spots for a slender look. Below, catch the new pieces in action in the label’s ad campaign video by director Katsuhide Morimoto.

Photo: Courtesy of Nike x Undercover Gyakusou

For New Models, There’s Room At The Top

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It’s been a puzzling season for model spectators. One of the biggest questions among enthusiasts is: Where are all the big-name girls? We let out a cry of relief when Karlie Kloss opened Anthony Vaccarello today after skipping out on New York, London, and Milan. But what about Abbey Lee Kershaw (Alexander Wang and Anna Sui have been her only stints)? Or the incomparable Freja Beha Erichsen (who’s gone totally MIA)? The answer comes down to economics. Walking in shows pays a paltry sum compared to landing an ad campaign, which these supes continue to score in spades. Simply put (and much to our dismay), fashion week isn’t financially worth their time or energy.

So you’d think that Fall’s fresh faces would fill in the void at the top right away, but that hasn’t been the case. Aside from Nadja Bender and Marie Piovesan, there are just a handful of new girls who have proven themselves to be more than just blips on the radar. Spunky Icelandic beauty Kolfinna Kristófersdóttir managed to win (with a whopping 42 percent of readers’ votes) the Style.com Walk-Off in London, beating out veterans like Shalom Harlow and Alana Zimmer. She continued to up the ante even further in Milan, booking shows including Versace, Emilio Pucci, and Marni. The other one who has demonstrated she can compete in the major leagues is Chinese model Lina Zhang, who walked A-list runways like Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta this week. As Paris gets under way, we expect to see a few more of these uncovered gems, as well as more of the veterans, turn up at the shows. After all, walking in the Chanel show: priceless.

Photo: Chris Moore / Getty Images