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August 30 2014

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Blue-Sky Thinking—Clouds Included

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Jackie Lee, or J. JS Lee, as the London-based Korean designer’s label is known, thought of warm fuzzy clouds for her first on-calendar show this afternoon. “I was inspired by clouds, shadows, and innocence,” Lee said between casting sessions. “When I was on the plane back to London from Korea, I looked down at the clouds; pure, clean, giving a comfortably warm feeling. A very Spring/Summer aesthetic, but I really wanted to put that warm feeling into a winter collection.”

Since her 2010 Saint Martins graduate show, Lee has built her name on the tailored, clean pieces ideal for a modern working wardrobe. The cloud motif is a departure. Lee says she wants her woman enveloped in innocence, and the color palette, playing on the theme, is calm and serene, a gray chart from ivory to black with a ray of sunshine, butter yellow. “There are a lot of details on each piece, but you still feel that it’s not messy; it looks very pure.”

Lee’s dresses have very structured bottoms with padded skirts contrasted with floaty tops. One boxy style comes with a squashy padded outline—bar the sleeves that, when worn, fall floppy. Ribbed knitwear features felted panels to the hem for that fuzzy feeling. A collared top has no line for a yoke but includes hand-stitching inside to create the shadow of a yoke: the collection’s theme in a single detail. “That is the story of shadow,” Lee said. “It’s there but it’s not there, it’s real but it’s not real.”

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