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July 12 2014

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Thomas Tait Gets Real

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For Fall, Thomas Tait is feeling the need for stability. “I think it’s just a reaction, when you’re starting up a company, in fashion or not,” the designer said at a preview before his show tomorrow. “There’re a lot of insecurities financially so I just felt a need for stability in my life, and I could see that happening in the clothes. Everything needs to feel ready: put it on, no fuss no muss, reliable.” Even the color palette reflects the mood. “I wanted realistic colors, almost common. I needed to see everything clearly. I was thinking about moss a lot—not as in Kate, but actual moss.” There’s a deep mustard yellow—in the mid-calf leather boots Tait has designed for the first time—as well as olive green, navy, black, pops of white, and a rich chocolate brown.


“It’s important to me to feel that every piece in the collection has reason to exist,” he says. “It’s really interesting, now that I’m selling the clothes, to hear what buyers have to say—things like, ‘She doesn’t show her arms above the elbow.’ I realize there’s a really deep psychological justification for buying! and I can understand that. So when I’m pattern-cutting and draping the initial shape, I’m constantly trying to remind myself what it feels like to be inside: Where’s the fabric weighing down on the body, where is it holding onto, what is it covering up, what is it not covering up. And it opens up so many opportunities to play with volume and proportion.”

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