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April 21 2014

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Coming This Fall: Three Floors Of Lanvin Menswear In New York City

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Lucas Ossendrijver (pictured), Lanvin’s menswear designer, was in town from Paris today to walk a handful of editors and buyers through key looks from his Fall ’12 collection. There was plenty to ogle as Ossendrijver ticked off the fine points of the pieces, including details too subtle to be seen on the Paris runways: the silicone injections that—à la plastic surgery—gave knits roundness and volume; lapels half shorn off and then reattached askew; the overcoats whose sloped-forward shape was achieved by hand-sewing chains into the sides for a toothlike grip; jackets with sleeves so slimmed they required darts. There was a new silhouette to attempt if you dare—a high-waisted flare that at least one female editor in the room murmured she’d have no problem wearing if her male compatriots were too timid—and a parade of Frankensteined outerwear, with puffer pieces sewn on cabans and greatcoats, or a leather moto jacket whose pieces were bonded to boiled wool, which peeked out through the segments of skin. But the news of the day was the details Ossendrijver shared on the forthcoming Lanvin men’s store on Madison Avenue, just a block south of where the women’s store now stands. “I’m really excited,” he said. “It’s going to be almost a replication of the Paris store.” Three floors’ worth of menswear will arrive when the store opens this Fall, including clothes, shoes (a new graphic series of sneakers in stamped croc, some with neon details on the soles), bags (a leather sac designed to be either slung over the shoulder or worn around the waist), and jewelry.

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