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August 21 2014

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Kirkwood’s Bow Coup

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It might have taken Woody Allen fans some real restraint not to yelp out something about Midnight in Paris when Nicholas Kirkwood was explaining his Fall collection a couple of days ago in his Marais showroom. But as he explains it, the magical era of Chanel and Cocteau was a logical next step from the romantic Pre-Raphaelite color of his pre-fall collection.

He used a white bouclé and surreal Art Deco mask graphics, while a wavy graphic motif that echoed marcelled curls was a more subtle reference. In general, there was a richer sense of romance, like pumps covered in a delicate vintage pale-mint brocade and decadent little mesh and black suede booties with a multicolored metallic floral embroidery (pictured, below). The latter looked like something Marie Antoinette might wear. Kirna Zabête’s Beth Buccini was trying on a pair during a sales appointment to the oohs and ahhs of everyone around her. Another marvel: Kirkwood’s new heel, a black lacquer and gold-trimmed Deco-esque cone with a bow at the top. From Paris to New York, the designer reports that his Washington Street store is now scheduled to open on March 21.

Photos: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

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