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August 21 2014

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Milan When It Sizzles

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The hottest Milan men’s fashion week in memory coincided with a hotter than usual party calendar. It didn’t seem to matter that many attendees were pink-cheeked; the Milanese shows, which ended earlier this week, were reason enough to beat the heat and dare another glass of Prosecco.

With whom? “Friends and family” is how Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli (pictured, left) described the guests at the dinner he hosted for his Spring collection at Giacomo Arengario. If that’s the case, Zucchelli’s got some of the best in the business. The restaurant was full to bursting. Amar’e Stoudemire and fiancée Alexis Welch made an appearance, despite the fact that Stoudemire barely fit into the restaurant’s elevator. Even the mighty were dwarfed by the scenery, though. New York Ranger Henrik Lundqvist admitted that in the presence of the magnificent Duomo—of which Giacomo has what must be one of the the best views in town—even a giant can feel small.

If Calvin played host to Milan’s guests, the Tod’s cocktail party welcomed Milanese natives. Designer Luisa Beccaria and blogger-about-town Micol Sabbadini were among Diego and Andrea Della Valle’s cocktail party for the new book dedicated to their countrymen, Italian Portraits. Domenico Dolce took the same theme from a different angle with Campioni, his new book of portraits of Italian footballers, the realization of his long-held dream of taking photographs. Fittingly, given the subject matter, at the late-raging party for the book’s release at the Metropol, Dolce & Gabbana’s show venue, the night’s Euro Cup match was projected on enormous screens about the fray. The party may not necessarily have helped Italy secure a victory over England, but it can’t have hurt.

While smaller parties flickered throughout the week—like Hercules magazine’s event for its project with accessory label Corto Moltedo, the line’s first collab men’s bag, and Hogan’s for its new ad campaign with Stephen Dorff—the editor-favorite Principe Hotel remained a constant source of slightly soused illumination. It was the place to see the week’s celebrity guests, like The Hunger Games‘ Alexander Ludwig, in town to take in Versace, or Michelle Dockery, Downton Abbey‘s Lady Mary, who’d sat front-row at Burberry. One elevator was even closed to plebeian traffic, in the service of an unnamed big kahuna. (Sightings of Madonna filming a new video in Florence during Pitti Uomo sparked rumors that the Material One would be the surprise guest at Dolce & Gabbana, but alas, no.) Even Dorff put in a night or two. He filled in interested parties about the new Hogan campaign, the pictures of which are still a closely guarded secret. It was shot at Cinecittà studios in Rome, famously the stomping grounds of none other than Federico Fellini.

Photo: Courtesy of Calvin Klein; Courtesy Photo

A Look At Lourenço Resort

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To show off his Resort collection and new collaboration with Melissa shoes, designer Pedro Lourenço enlisted model Maria Bradley and director Philip Andelman to create a short film. Here, watch Bradley float around weightlessly in Lourenço’s urban, sporty looks and the Melissa No. 1 shoe he designed for the Brazilian shoe label. Style.com has the exclusive first look at the video, with sound by Superpitcher.

Jérôme Dreyfuss Sets Up Shop On Rue Jacob

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“Who Says Men Don’t Like Bags?!!!” reads one of the in-store ads at the just-opened Monsieur Dreyfuss boutique in Paris. Certainly not Jérôme Dreyfuss. The designer celebrated his recent expansion from women’s to men’s accessories last night on Rue Jacob, site of the aforementioned men’s shop and of a new 1,000-square-foot retail space for his eponymous women’s line.

Dreyfuss has now built a little domain for himself in this relaxed corner of Saint-Germain, home of the galleries that popularized postwar European furniture designers like Charlotte Perriand and Jean Prouvé. Serge Gainsbourg used to live nearby. “You get the feeling you’re going to see Woody Allen at the corner of the street,” Dreyfuss explained. In fact, he added, he did once, but didn’t introduce himself, despite having the perfect conversation starter: Carla Bruni used one of his bags in Midnight in Paris.

On this night, mostly Parisian friends and followers (including Dreyfuss’ wife, Isabel Marant) sipped Champagne in the street as cars and Vélib’ cyclists squeezed through. Some of them were the pals, including a photographer and a ballet dancer for the Opéra de Paris, for whom Dreyfuss originally designed his men’s bags—which come, by the way, in leather and canvas and often with detachable compartments. “I don’t think they’re super fashionable, I think it’s just what people need,” Dreyfuss offered. “I never asked myself the question before, ‘What do I need?’ When you’re a man, you always get the feeling you don’t need anything. But in the end it’s interesting to see you can create some needs.” And, of course, a new shop or two in which to satisfy them.

Photo: Eric Ryan / Getty Images

Atelier Versace Is Putting On The Ritz, And More Of Today’s Top Stories

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It’s a big weekend for Donatella Versace (pictured). This Sunday, the Italian design icon will be showing Atelier Versace at the Paris Ritz, a first since her brother Gianni’s death in 1997. “After Gianni died all these experts kept telling me what would sell and what wouldn’t. After a while I realized nobody knows. He always said, you have to follow your instincts,” says Donatella. [Telegraph]

Jade Jagger also has a big weekend ahead of her. The daughter of Rolling Stone Mick Jagger will be walking down the aisle on Saturday, as she ties the knot with her DJ fiancé Adrian Fillary at the Cotswolds. While most details are under wraps, word on the street is that Kate Moss will be attending with her daughter Lila, who will step into the role of flower girl. [Vogue U.K.]

Need another reason to head to the Hamptons? Next week, Reed and Delphine Krakoff are taking their One Chair art installation to the East Hampton’s Harper’s Books. The exhibit features 99 felt chairs that the couple used as a blank canvas to showcase a range of colors and shapes. Krakoff also designed a limited-edition set of his Uniform Satchel bag to debut alongside the art. [WWD]

With her stunning face and killer body, you would think that Miranda Kerr would be chomping at the bit to show herself off, especially to her husband, actor Orlando Bloom. But the Harper’s Bazaar U.K. cover girl admits otherwise. “I never really want Orlando to be there [in the audience of a show] because it makes me nervous,” she says. [Telegraph]

 

 

 

Photo:Pier Marco Tacca / Getty Images

 

Franca Talk

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Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani has been hard at work fulfilling her duties as the first-ever Goodwill Ambassador for Fashion 4 Development, producing the African issue for L’Uomo Vogue and initiating global commerce partnerships with retailers like Yoox.com. Yesterday, she made her way to NYC for a roundtable discussion at the United Nations to talk about the organization’s progress and upcoming projects. She was joined by other fashion heavyweights committed to creating jobs in communities and sustainability around the world through fashion, including EDUN CEO Janice Sullivan, president of the Accessories Council Karen Giberson, and F4D founder Evie Evangelou.

Of the experience thus far, she told Style.com, “I learned that nothing is impossible. I already knew, but now I am sure.” She continued, “We met so many young people [while traveling around Africa], some of them are very talented and some are not—not all of us could be the editor in chief of a magazine, everyone has a different story. But I put this group of designers together and they made a good collection and it sold out in two weeks on Yoox.” Sozzani admitted she has identified several talented African designers who might some day land their collections on the runways in the major fashion cities and that she’s currently working on a partnership with Saks to showcase some of these designers. For now, however, the plan is still in its earlier stages. “We don’t have money to make a showroom for them yet. I am the showroom,” she said, laughing.

In the meantime, they are striving to establish fashion business partnerships in Africa like China and Brazil have set into place. Sozzani pointed out, however, that the situation in Africa is not like China. “No one ever told them the richness of their work is worth more than they are getting paid for their craft,” she said. She has started trying to change that by prompting major designers to create small collections and have them produced in Africa. “It doesn’t mean the clothes will look African, it just means they are being produced there and creates more jobs. Lots of designers are joining us on this,” she said. On the subject of major designers, it was announced that the organization has a big project lined up with the likes of Donatella Versace and Roberto Cavalli, with more details coming on that soon. When reminded that while she was talking about her latest do-good endeavors in Africa, the menswear shows are still in full swing, she responded, “I am not missing the men’s shows; I don’t like them at all. To see a beautiful woman walking down the runway is so different. Some men’s collection are really nice (Prada’s was amazing), but some are just ridiculous, you know?”

Photo: Courtesy Photo