At Berlin Fashion Week, A Few Feathers, A Lot Of Leather
Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week began yesterday in the German capital. All week, reporter Hili Perlson will be sending back dispatches from the scene.
Berlin fashion week has a new home this season, a few kilometers away from its former address. That makes it not only the first time that the shows will take place in the former West, but also that it’s sharing real estate with the Siegsäule, the nineteenth-century Victory Column that was also ground zero for the legendary Love Parade. The electronica-and-more fest wasn’t known for its high fashion cred—it gave rise to more than a few bizarre looks—but it inspired some utterly creative getups in its heyday nevertheless.
Still, the shows at Berlin were more fashion than festival. Escada Sport opened the season with a breezy Spring 2013 collection of light knits and embroidered pieces that mixed a hot summer Cancun getaway with Berlin cool. At the end of the show, it was a lamb leather T-shirt worn with matching pants that had showgoers buzzing.
The contrast to Augustin Teboul’s presentation could hardly be starker. The visionary German-French duo showed an all-black collection of sheer fabrics and leather, inspired by Baudelaire’s Les fleurs du mal, offsite in a grand West Berlin apartment, where the models were set within cavernous flower arrangements.
Dawid Tomaszewski took things in a more avant-garde direction, sending alienlike models down the runway wearing futuristic jackets and laser-cut dresses made of high-tech materials, styled with feathers held in place by a mouthpiece (pictured, right). The collection of gravity-defying tops and rubber leggings was aptly entitled Metamorphosis and was inspired by the landscape of Portugal, though save for the Fado soundtrack, the collection evoked Asia Minor more than Iberian Peninsula.
Kaviar Gauche, one of the city’s strongest brands, closed out the first day, showing its signature ultra-feminine and always wearable looks, this time in shades of yellow, mustard, ocher, and black (pictured, left).