Julien David Takes The ANDAM
Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Andelman, Renzo Rosso, and other jurors on this year’s Andam Fashion Award panel, myself included, gathered at the Ritz in Paris this afternoon to choose this year’s winner. In the running for the €230,000 prize were Cédric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, and Thomas Tait. As ever, it was a cosmopolitan crew, with designers hailing from Belgium, Russia, Canada, and Germany, but David, the competition’s Frenchman, came out ahead. (A look from his well-received Fall ’12 show is pictured, left.)
For the moment, the designer’s business is based in Japan, but he’ll be spending more time on his native soil—the award requires the recipient to found and operate a company in France. Despite being an expat nearly half of his life—David left home at 18 to study at Parsons in New York and worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren—he professed excitement at the prospect of coming home. “I had ideas I couldn’t execute in Japan because money was an issue,” he said. “I want to expand the collection concept, especially into areas that are unique to France, like embroideries.” The Prize Ceremony will take place tomorrow evening at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
The young women behind the one-year-old label Piece d’Anarchive—sisters Priscilla and Déborah Royer and Virginie Muys—won ANDAM’s First Collection Award, which comes with a €60,000 check. The trio said they’ll use the funds to put on a September presentation of their Spring 2013 collection, which jurors got a sneak peek at. Newbies they may be, but they didn’t lack for presentation skills. Describing the sports-influenced collection, Priscilla evocatively promised “discipline dancing with ecstasy.”