Leather Forecast At A.P.C.
A.P.C. has sprouted a couple new projects recently that continue to grow for next spring. One is its swimwear collaboration with Tooshie; the other is Louis W., a capsule collection of leather jackets by one of the label’s designers, Louis Wong. At this point, it’s more about “the spirit of leather” than about a game-changing look, Wong told Style.com in A.P.C.’s Paris showroom this weekend.
His first collection, which is made almost entirely of deerskin and hits stores in October, channeled the cop heroes of seventies policiers. Wong is feeling the caress of glove leather for next spring, too, but this time the references are more American: Think Top Gun and Easy Rider. Louis W. will likely be sold in places where A.P.C. is not, which will allow the clothes (if not also their designer) to gain some separation from the main line. Already Wong has been exploring textures and ideas (not to mention price points) that might be a bit off-limits to A.P.C. “With leather, I prefer the perfect object, everything really refined. With knitwear, I like the rough aspect,” he explained.
It was the perfect segue to A.P.C.’s Spring collection, which injects a Warhol-era graphic quality into the label’s minimalist knits and workwear. Applied to stiff gabardine, a blue leopard print is also vaguely blue-collar—”anti-glamour,” as Wong put it. You wouldn’t say that about a lamb leather Louis W. jacket that’s got the color and feel of butter. And that seems to be the point.