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August 23 2014

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A Paris Veteran Pops Back Up

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You may not know Emmanuel Aubry’s name, but you’ve definitely seen his work. Throughout the eighties, the French jeweler was the hand behind Thierry Mugler’s outrageous accessories, like metal stilettos, gloves, and corsets. “Back then, fashion was a business, but it was just so much fun,” he recalls. “We were serious about what we did, but we never took ourselves too seriously. Things have changed since then.” His follow-up gig was a complete about-face, creating costume jewelry for Christian Lacroix. When the house shuttered, Aubry put himself on hiatus. His baubles, however, had other plans; the designer’s one-off accessories cropped up on the runway at Bouchra Jarrar and Alexandre Vauthier.

Earlier this year, Aubry resolved it was time for a comeback and launched A Fine Jewel, a streamlined collection of limited-edition jewelry. “My idea was to return to luxury in its original sense: something that’s finely made, discreet, and personal, something that you don’t see everywhere.” That might be a delicate gold chain with asymmetrical knots, a new twist on diamond studs, or the 38-carat cushion-cut smoked quartz necklace that’s already been snapped up by several style-setting Parisiennes (he also does private commissions, giving new life to heirlooms or creating one-offs). Aubrey usually works by appointment-only, but, just in time for the holidays, the designer is showcasing his wares in a pop-up shop in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. His price tags are less shocking then those in Place Vendôme (where he’s also done time), but luxury doesn’t come cheap. Rings run around $500, while more lavish pieces go up to $2,900.

Emmanuel Aubry’s pop-up is located at 9 Victor Hugo in the 16th arr., open Tuesday-Saturday afternoons through December 24.

Photo: Courtesy of Emmanuel Aubry

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