Berlin Fashion Week Comes to a Close-------
Throughout Berlin fashion week, Alonso Dominguez will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
The last day of Berlin fashion week kicked off with Issever Bahri (left)—a young label (founded in 2010) designed by German-Turkish duo Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri. For Fall ’13, the pair put forth a minimal, neutral collection of long silk shirts and oversize knits. These were worn with black leather trousers and short skirts in wool velvet. Demure dresses brought a youthful femininity to the collection.
Over at Vladimir Karaleev, deconstruction was the name of the game. The conceptual designer sent men and women in unfinished gabardine, wool, and rubber garments down his runway. Key looks included a cream woven sweater with a mesh detail that exposed the model’s torso and a cropped see-through-plastic electric blue jacket with faux-fur sleeves.
At Dawid Tomaszewski, one of the most anticipated shows of the week, there were smoky-eyed models wearing sculptural black and dark gray looks in leather and silk. Applications like rubber patches on tights and copper-colored metallic belts and cummerbunds gave the collection a futuristic feel, while baded embroidery and carefully tailored jackets and capes were evidence of the designer’s attention to detail.
Michael Michalsky’s show—the last of the evening—was held at an off-site location. For men, there were rolled-up trousers, dark blazers, and leather jackets. Illustrator Bendix Bauer designed Michalsky’s custom Fall print, which appeared on trousers, shirts, and a suit. For the ladies, the designer showed long silk and lace dresses and skirts paired with thick coats, dark blazers, or sequined jackets. Mini polka dots covered aqua blouses and long skirts, and the black chiffon finale gown—nipped at the waist with a bowed belt—closed the show (and for that matter, Berlin fashion week) with a flash of drama.
Three of Berlin’s biggest shows—Schumacher, Rena Lange, and Laurel—were scheduled back-to-back on FWB’s third day. Schumacher’s Fall collection—designed by Dorothee Schumacher—started things off. The lace, tweed, and silk garments had a slight Russian feel, as did the capes (shown in mustard and gray wool), decadent fur head casques, and stoles. Over at Rena Lange, there were geometric black-and-white looks that had a sixties mod feel. The designer also turned out cashmere and silk skirts, dresses, and jackets that featured broad black, neutral, purple, and red stripes.
Laurel, Escada’s revived sister brand, sent an array of metallic and sequined evening looks down the catwalk. Bold color selections (bright orange, purple, hot pink, silver, electric blue) dominated the collection, giving it a fresh, young edge. Details like fur collars and tops, heavy shawls, and the occasional platinum-colored clutch represented the brand’s characteristic luxe flair.
But day three wasn’t just about Berlin’s big names. Since launching his line in 2010, young designer Michael Sontag has offered covetable looks in unexpected silhouettes. This season, he showed asymmetrical silk gowns with cutout backs, some of which were complemented by oversize coats or capes. Rose-gold-glitter boots—crafted to look like they were melting around models’ ankles—brought a smirkworthy pop to the designer’s otherwise minimal collection.
The final show was Hugo by Hugo Boss, where the future had arrived. Jane Jetson-worthy metallic jackets with triangular shoulder details were followed by skintight dresses in psychedelic-patterned fabrics. Long dresses with deep halter fronts and rhomboid cutouts were presented in several versions, including some with contrasting micro tops worn underneath. For the men, there were classic Boss suits with a few twists, like bright red fabrics and leather. But it was the heavy wool, cashmere, and leather coats, for him and her, that were, perhaps, the biggest crowd-pleasers.
The second day of shows started off on a dramatic note with Frida Weyer’s presentation. The designer presented her Fall ’13 collection via a series of arresting tableau vivants in Berlin’s Chamäleon theater. Models showed off midnight-blue and beige rhinestone- and bead-embellished dresses while sipping tea or posing in winter-wonderland landscapes. Grecian gowns and a few corseted pieces provided a more sensual note to the collection, which was shown with opulent jewelry and sky-high stilettos.
Italian import Dimitri (left) stayed true to its feminine aesthetics for Fall ’13. Models strutted in printed aqua and neutral second-skin dresses and leggings. Raffia strings were fashioned into short dresses and knee-length skirts, whilst a dress made from plastic was worn under a faux-fur coat. Meanwhile, over at the tent’s studio, new label 1913Berlin by Yujia debuted its second cashmere collection. Patterned dresses, oversize sweaters, and bold colored scarves for men and women stood out in the sporty, relaxed collection.
Berlin label Augustin Teboul (helmed by duo Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul) chose a Mitte art gallery as the backdrop for their presentation. The all-black collection (which was shown on a foggy stage) featured the label’s signature embroidery, chunky knits, and asymmetrical cuts in lace, silk, and leather. Details like woven leather leggings and beaded sleeves made it easy to see why Augustin Teboul has rapidly ascended to cult status.
The last collection of the day was that of Lala Berlin (designed by Leyla Piedayesh), who focused on a series of earthy Southwestern prints (left). Miniskirts with roomy pullovers were followed by a couple of the label’s signature caftans, which were worn beneath thick wool coats and scarves. Trousers, skirts, and airy blouses in a custom night-sky print were the last looks down the runway. But the show didn’t end with the final ensemble: Piedayesh’s 5-year-old daughter decided to take a lap on the catwalk as her mother took her bow. An endearing closing moment for the second day at the Berlin tents.
Berlin has long been the ugly stepsister to the major fashion capitals. But with the start of the Fall ’13 collections (which run through January 20), the city finds itself on its way to becoming a fashion-calendar fixture. The week began with rookie Hien Le (left), who showed his sixth collection to date. The up-and-comer presented carefully knitted sweaters for him and her, as well as translucent degradé dresses and tops in rich fall hues like wine and midnight blue. Le ended his show on a refreshing note with a parade of clean white looks. Over at the Brandenburger Tor tent, the Berlin rockabilly scene turned out in full force for cult favorite Lena Hoschek (below). The designer’s fifties and sixties frocks—paired with shredded stockings and demure heels or combat boots—were shown in luxe fabrics covered in floral prints and embroidery. Lace accents, fringed scarves, and models’ piled braids gave the collection a distinct Spanish feel.
The afternoon kicked off with Perret Schaad, a young design duo who debuted in 2009. The pair showed easy fall wares, like fluid asymmetrical dresses, sleek silk skirts and pants, and simple sweaters in a palette that included rose gold, electric red, silver, and smoky blue.
Come evening, the Berlin snow began to fall, but that didn’t stop showgoers from trekking back to the tents for Kilian Kerner‘s runway romp. Now in his tenth season, the designer tried his hand at couture-inspired tailoring, but his true strengths showed in skillfully crafted ready-to-wear (like sleek black dresses, sharp suiting, and wearable separates for him and her), which demonstrated the grown-up qualities of a more seasoned sartorial author.