Stockholm Fashion Week Comes To A Close
Throughout Stockholm fashion week, blogger Columbine Smille will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage click here.
The final day of Stockholm fashion week began with AltewaiSaome, a young label designed by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome. For Fall, the pair was inspired by a trip to New York and showed a luxe take on streetwear. Featuring embellished dresses, emerald-green hooded silk jackets, and relaxed silhouettes, their wearable urban collection had an easy, sporty tone.
J.Lindeberg’s Fall ’13 (above) was all about traditional tailoring with a modern twist. Inspired by the Stockholm City Library, the men’s collection was filled with well-cut suits and coats, as well as a few splashes of color and playful prints. For women, the brand (which is sold in more than thirty-five countries worldwide) offered sophisticated separates in black, navy, and olive.
Over at Diana Orving, there were earth tones, metallics and flowerlike sheer organza appliqués. A few dresses were shown in a script print, which the designer wrote in her own hand, but the long lace dress paired with a transparent off-the-shoulder cardigan was the highlight of the show.
Tiger of Sweden—which some have come to call the Burberry Prorsum of Stockholm—closed fashion week with a standout show (a show that, it should be noted, included model Kirstin Liljegren, pictured above). Tweed coats and caps were mixed with color-blocked silky looks in black, deep purple, and neon. The outerwear, however, was the crowd favorite—a big fuzzy fur coat made front-rowers look twice.
Stockholm fashion week may be finished, but the Swedes still have two more local brands to look forward to: Acne Studios will be showing in Paris this season (they formerly showed in London), and Rodebjer has recently started presenting their collection in New York. Indeed, we’re excited to see what they’ll bring to the international fashion stage.
Day Two started off with H&M’s 2013 Design Award winner, Minju Kim. The conceptual collection, which will be sold at H&M, featured bright, playful fantasy worriers and left showgoers wanting to take home Kim’s furry, teddy-bear-like jumpsuit (left).
Next up was Dagmar (below), a brand that has gotten a lot of international attention the past few seasons (in fact, it’s already carried on Net-a-Porter). The label’s Fall ’13 did not disappoint. The show kicked off with a sleek coat-cape hybrid, which was followed by a series of fitted separates and coats in warm fall hues (deep turquoise, violet, and caramel), as well as pieces inspired by the renaissance (like an off-the-shoulder lace-knitted maxi dress). Dagmar’s easy Fall looks were topped with a range of military-inspired tweed hats, a collaboration between the label and Malinda Damgaard.
Cheap Monday chose a gymnasium in a Stockholm high school for its Fall ’13 venue—a fitting location, as the clothes are sure to make teen spirits swoon. The styling spelled out grunge (think sheer lace pants, plaid shirts, and denim), perhaps hinting that the trend, which was a hit for Spring ’13, will make a repeat appearance this season. Meanwhile, Swedish label to watch Hernández Cornet mixed a clean-cut aesthetic with pops of edge (like glossy patent leather skirts and coats and a see-through jumpsuit). The black, aubergine, royal blue, and emerald collection also included oversized sweaters and cozy shoes that resembled fluffy bedroom slippers.
Whyred—a label known for its wardrobe classics—closed out the day. And its chief designer, Roland Hjort, used Fall ’13 as an opportunity to return to the brand’s roots. Primarily constructed from suede, tweed, denim, and leather, the collection (below) offered updated classics (tailored trousers and blazers, simple skirts and dresses, strong, feminine coats, and a few cocktail frocks) in cobalt, moss, burnt rose, black, and neutrals. For a bit of fun, there was a metallic strapless gown with a sweetheart neckline. But, worn over a white blouse and paired with a black blazer, it seemed almost sensible.
Stockholm fashion week began yesterday, and who more suitable to kick off the festivities than B. Akerlund (above, left), the stylist for Rihanna, Madonna, and Lady Gaga? Appointed by Mercedes-Benz as the official master of the shows’ opening ceremonies, she turned up dressed in a custom-made leather dress by BLK DNM, a label that, unfortunately for us Swedes, is not on the Stockholm schedule. However, its Swedish designer, Johan Lindeberg, sat in a few front rows, along with stylist Robert Rydberg and actresses Alicia Vikander and Noomi Rapace. An impressive group of international buyers (Net-a-Porter.com, Liberty, and MyWardrobe.com, to name a few) was also spotted at the shows—a testament to Stockholm’s growing fashion influence.
The Local Firm was the first label to send its Fall ’13 down the catwalk. The collection was urban and wearable, featuring tough-girl separates and an abundance of fringe and leather. Next up was Hunkydory (above), a brand that many have called the Isabel Marant of Sweden. Fall ’13 was all about cropped leather pants, military influences, velvet, and bohemia. Frida Gustavsson set the tone when she opened the show wearing a peacoat with cropped burgundy suede pants, and a black-fringed dress (as well as some gold-embellished tops, dresses, and skirts) continued the French-boho vibe.
Ann-Sofie Back is known for making big statements and conceptual collections. And the Fall ’13 collection for her diffusion line, BACK (left), was no exception. The show started with a chorus of what sounded like chanting soccer fans—which made sense, considering Back’s Fall offering had a decidedly sporty feel. We saw pins, nets, and sequins combined with workwear and what looked like the knit team scarves fans wear to soccer games. The designer herself wore a T-shirt printed with the logos of H&M and Cheap Monday (where she is also the head of design), a witty nod toward the idea that she’s been “bought.” Indeed, Back has become more commercial these past seasons, with BACK selling at H&M-owned high-street chain Weekday, but the designer has stayed true to her signature style, which is to say, she never plays it safe.
For the first season, Carin Wester (left) skipped her menswear collection to focus on her womenswear range, and the result was her strongest offering in years. Wester’s Fall ’13 featured loose, voluminous silhouettes, cropped leather trousers, oversize knits, and sharp-shouldered coats. To ensure her looks (many of which were topped with cozy fur hats) weren’t too “soft,” Wester put patterns called “Wolf prints” on dresses, blouses, and bomber jackets. In fact, they looked more like raccoon tails, but they added a playful, kitschy edge to her sophisticated fall range.