Copenhagen Fashion Week Comes to a Close
Copenhagen fashion week kicked off Thursday, and below Blame It On Fashion blogger Marie Hindkær Wolthers reports back on the city’s most notable shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
Even with the promise of champagne, 8 a.m. is an early call time for the last day of fashion week. But that didn’t stop editors from flocking to Day Birger et Mikkelsen‘s Copenhagen flagship for an early-morning presentation. While show-goers enjoyed a tasty brunch, models wove through the room in tweed coats, wrap dresses, pencil skirts, fluffy sweaters and tiger-print pants. Casual suits and beaded jackets were also Fall features and showed off the brand’s signature fusion of intricate craftsmanship and simplicity.
After more than thirty years on the fashion scene, Ivan Grundahl is not exactly a new kid on the block. Even so, his Fall ’13 felt youthful, and even a little rock ’n’ roll. Asymmetrical lines, architectural shapes, and uneven silhouettes are Grundahl’s signatures—all of which were present during Friday’s show. The collection (above) offered lots of heavy boots, loose trousers, and sweaters in dark prints, black, and army green. Large pockets and lace were used as accents, and balloon-shaped dresses and sequined skirts provided hints of femininity.
Stine Riis, the winner of last year’s H&M Design Award, closed out Copenhagen fashion week with her collection, RIIS. For Fall ’13, she continued her love affair with clean dressing and discreet details, showing tailored trousers and narrow pencil skirts mixed with silk shirts and wool outerwear. A gray jacket was one of the best pieces in the show, and cutout patent leather details on skirts and tops were a nice contrast to the modern minimalism.
This season, for the first time in its history, Copenhagen fashion week welcomed Dame Vivienne Westwood, who showed her Anglomania collection. Choosing Børsen—one of the most notable Renaissance buildings in Copenhagen—for her stage, Westwood brought tartan, barbed-wire prints, florals, and some not-so-classic skirtsuits to the city. Indeed, the Dame’s presence caused quite a stir, but editors had plenty of local talent to look forward to as well. Take Veronica B. Vallenes, the Norwegian designer who, in just a few seasons, has established a signature look that’s both elegant and down-to-earth. For Fall ’13, Vallenes’ best offerings were sporty with a classic twist (think tapered pants, slouchy shorts, and cardigans). The black, neutral, green, and blue collection received an added dose of urban coolness courtesy of a jewelry collaboration with Norwegian designer Bjørg.
Next was up-and-coming designer Anne Sofie Madsen, who showed her fourth collection in Copenhagen’s City Hall. The female warrior seems to be an ongoing theme for Madsen, and for Fall ’13 she showed lots of leather, cutouts, appliqués, lace-ups, and fur pieces made in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur.
Designers Remix’s show (left) was staged in what seemed to be an old hospital in the middle of Copenhagen. So it was only fitting that attendees were greeted by a fleet of nurses serving champagne. “I have played with the concept of white, and the blonde nurse was my muse,” explained creative director Charlotte Eskildsen before the show. Her inspiration was clear as the first ten models walked the runway, each wearing an all-white ensemble, wig, nursing cap, and rubber gloves. However, there were less literal looks, too—spotted tops and cardigans, little black dresses, boxy sweaters, and contemporary takes on suiting were all edgy and wearable.
Thanks to its Scandinavian simplicity, Bruuns Bazaar is one of the highlights of Copenhagen fashion week. Mid-century furniture and Benjamin Rubloff’s subtle oil paintings were the inspirations behind Fall ’13. Knee-length skirts, boxy jackets, and cropped or extra-long pants were clean and easy. And graphic-printed silks, as well as a pair of black leather pants paired with a sleeveless turtleneck, proved that dressing simply is anything but boring.
Over at By Malene Birger (left), a milestone had been reached—it was the label’s tenth anniversary. And the likes of Mary, Crown Princess of Denmark, and Princess Marie of Denmark turned out to the Royal Danish Theatre to view the Fall ’13 collection. Danish stunner Caroline Brasch Nielsen opened the show in a black-and-white look that emphasized the designer’s love for contrasts. Next came slouchy silk pants, ladylike dresses, cigarette pants, crisp shirts, and wide-brimmed hats. This season, Birger got her inspiration from Moroccan rugs, Arabian tiles, and orchids (these influences were apparent in prints on bags, shoes, tops, and pants). In the spirit of celebration, the show closed with a bang—the stage was showered with confetti, and Birger threw kisses to the audience.
Last up was Wood Wood and the label, which showed at a gym in Nørrebro, brought a New York coolness to Fall ’13. Sporty looks were polished off with classic tailoring and featured printed denim, cropped pin-striped pants, college jackets, skater skirts, and floral-printed pieces.